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In Valladolid, along the stretches of the Ribera del Duero that run through the province, exceptionally hardy vines grow, withstanding bitterly cold winters and scorching summers when the heat seems endless. Perhaps this is where the region’s wines and cuisine get their distinctive character: hearty, flavoursome and generous, with dishes such as roast suckling lamb, Castilian garlic soup, cod and lamb chops. Discovering it for yourself is as simple as visiting these three wineries and their restaurants.
Peñafiel draws visitors with its spectacular castle, perched high on a promontory and resembling the shape of a ship. Its courtyard is home to the Provincial Wine Museum. The town is also known for its famous Plaza del Coso, a medieval square surrounded by distinctive buildings made from adobe, stone and wood. And as though that were not enough, some of the Ribera del Duero’s most renowned wineries lie at the foot of this town in the province of Valladolid.
You will know them by their wines. One such winery is Pago de Carraovejas, whose story began back in the 1970s and which now has 160 hectares of vineyards in production, growing three grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Its wine tourism experiences offer visitors the chance to discover how the vineyards are managed, how the winery works with the climate to protect the vines from harsh conditions while making the most of its benefits, and how exceptional wines such as Pago de Carraovejas, El Anejón and Cuesta de las Liebres are produced.
Afterwards — or during the visit, as many tours include it — sampling the cuisine at Ambivium is both a must and a genuine pleasure. The restaurant holds a Michelin star and a Repsol Sun. Seasonal, locally sourced ingredients take centre stage, inspiring a menu that changes throughout the year and is designed around wine. Details such as its own organic kitchen garden, which supplies the vegetables, herbs and spices served on the plate, together with a firm commitment to the finest produce, guarantee flavour and excellence.
They hardly need an introduction, but just to set the scene, they describe their wines as “a genuine ode to the land” and “an expression of their love for the Ribera”. With such a declaration of intent, combined with the Moro family’s more than 100 years of winemaking experience, it is hardly surprising that Wine Spectator awarded 95 and 96 points respectively to Malleolus de Valderramiro and Malleolus de Sanchomartín, two of the winery’s most iconic red wines. With either of these in your glass, every toast deserves top marks.
At Bodegas Emilio Moro, Tempranillo has always been part of their DNA. But so has refusing to stand still and daring to embrace new ideas: indigenous yeasts, digital vineyard logs, drones, vineyard geolocation… Their wine tourism experiences delve deeper into all of this, opening the doors of the winery so you can wander among the vines and learn surrounded by its barrels.
Some tours take you through part of the vineyards, introduce you to the history of the Moro family and invite you to taste a selection of their wines. Others also include the chance to enjoy a special menu paired with some of the winery’s most emblematic labels. What will be on your plate? Depending on whether you choose the Gastronomic Experience or Journey to the Origins, you may find dishes such as white asparagus velouté with truffle, almonds and artichokes, or goose foie gras terrine with pickled vegetables and mushrooms. One thing, however, is guaranteed whichever experience you choose: their signature roast suckling lamb.