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  3. Haro Wine Battle: getting stained is part of the plan

Haro Wine Battle: getting stained is part of the plan

Ideal for

Logroño
Wine
Traditional festivals
Traditions

It’s fair to say that when you travel to La Rioja, what you usually want is to enjoy a good glass of wine. And we’re not saying you won’t do that on this getaway, but first you’ll be using it as a weapon in the Haro Wine Battle. Yes, this celebration really exists and, what’s more, it has been declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest.

 

And this festival is not just a one-day affair. Let’s go back a little: it takes place on 29 June, the feast day of Saint Peter, although the pilgrimage — because this all began as a religious procession — is held in honour of the city’s patron saint, San Felices de Bilibio. In fact, it has been taking place since the 6th century, when he died. The residents of Haro, along with any visitors who want to join them, make their way to his hermitage, located in the Riscos de Bilibio cliffs, around 6 kilometres north of the town. Before the hermitage existed, there was only a cave there, where the saint’s remains were buried.

 

So how did the Wine Battle begin? Well, like many of these celebrations do: by chance. After one of these pilgrimages, while the town was already having lunch and resting, one local decided to cool down another by spraying him with a stream of wine. This must have been towards the end of the 19th century. They called it a wine baptism, and it has survived to this day, with the cliffs once again bearing witness to this rather boozy battle every 29 June.

Agenda for a Wine Battle in Haro

This battle starts early. Or at least the logistics do. By around 7 am, the town is already on the move, heading towards the Riscos de Bilibio and up to the hermitage. There are usually buses departing from the open area next to the River Tirón bridge, taking people to the campas: large open fields at the foot of the cliffs. The final stretch up to the hermitage is done on foot.

 

Once there, after the mass in honour of San Felices de Bilibio, the battle begins. The exact moment is marked by the launch of a rocket. Afterwards, everyone makes their way back to Haro, where the pilgrims are expected around midday to take part in “las vueltas” around the town — as the name suggests, this is the return route from the cliffs — all to the rhythm of the brass bands.

What to wear and other tips to keep in mind

They say that all is fair in love and war, but when it comes to the Haro Wine Battle, we’ll make an exception and suggest keeping a few recommendations in mind. First of all, have a good breakfast. This celebration starts first thing in the morning, and several hours will go by before you can eat again.

 

Next, don’t wear that outfit you love so much. Once you enter this battle, you can pretty much say goodbye to whatever you’re wearing. On top of that, you need to dress in white and wear the red festival scarf. As for footwear, go for something comfortable: you’ll be spending several hours in a wine war, followed by “las vueltas”.

 

Sunglasses — or even swimming goggles, if you really want to be prepared — can be your best allies to stop wine getting into your eyes. Because let’s be honest, there’s a good chance it will. Remember, everyone comes armed: from wineskins and wine pistols to sprayers and jugs. The goal? To make sure no participant’s white clothing stays white. Here, there are no friends.

The foodie tip

We told you at the start of this article that there would be a glass of wine. And Haro, in La Rioja Alta, is home to some of the best-known wineries in this designation of origin. We’re talking, for example, about Ramón Bilbao, where you can discover its history and the work it does through different guided visits. And yes, some of them include tastings and even food pairings. If what you’re really after is local gastronomy, ask about its restaurant. Its KM 0 menu is a succession of dishes from the surrounding area.

 

They also know a thing or two about tastings at Martínez Lacuesta winery. Its visits end with them, and alongside the wine, you’ll also get to try the vermouth they produce. At its wine bar, you can continue sampling its creations and pair them with a few gildas. Oh, and one last tip: save some room for pintxos, because tonight you’re sleeping in Logroño and a visit to Calle Laurel is a must.

Where to sleep

Sleeping in Logroño is a strategic choice, especially if you’re spending several days in the area. You’ll have other possible wine tourism routes within easy reach and you can choose from one of the four Sercotel hotels in Logroño: Sercotel Calle Mayor, Sercotel Portales, Sercotel Murrieta and Sercotel Logroño Suites. Guests love their central location, close to the city’s main tourist must-sees; the variety of room types, designed to welcome all kinds of travellers — families, couples, groups of friends… — and the fact that they offer those little extras that make any getaway even more appealing: buffet breakfast, parking, late check-out and a pet-friendly kit in case your four-legged friend is coming too…

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